Introduction
Planting is only the first phase of the process.  It takes 3 to 5 years of care for a seedling to be considered established.  The purpose of this guide is to assist the landowner in obtaining the highest possible percentage survival of planted conservation seedlings.  Over 90% survival can be achieved if all recommendations are followed.  If they are ignored, you may observe less than 20% survival.  For best results, follow the instructions provided in this planting guide.
Planning
You should have already determined your objectives for the seedlings you are about to plant.  A diagram showing spacing between seedlings and between rows should be referenced during planting.
Site Preparation
Site preparation is necessary to catch and store moisture, reduce grass and weed competition, and prepare the soil for planting. 

•  Medium to heavy (clay) soils should be fallowed the year prior to planting.  Sites can be left rough over the winter and disked, harrowed, or roto-tilled just before planting. 

• Light, sandy soils subject to wind erosion should not be summer fallowed.  It is recommended to plant cover crops such as sorghum, grain, or sudan grass the summer before planting trees.  Cultivate just before planting, but leave the strip between rows uncultivated.

• Perennial weeds such as Canada thistle and bindweed should be eradicated before trees are planted.  Grasses should also be eliminated.  Weeds and grasses take moisture away from seedling and may cause them to die.

Care and Storage of Seedlings
Improper care of seedlings from delivery to planting is one of the greatest causes of mortality.  Do not store any seedlings in heated buildings, or expose to warm air, sun, or wind.  THE DISTRICT IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR SEEDLINGS NOT PICKED UP WITHIN 48 HOURS OF DELIVERY!

• Bare root bundles should be left intact and stored in a cool place, under 50°F, if not planted within 48 hours of delivery.  Bundles should be opened, seedlings placed in a trench, roots covered with loose soil, and the trench filled with soil if planting will not occur within two days.  Keep soil in the trench moist and protect roots from air exposure.

• Potted trees should be watered frequently to keep soil moist.  One method is to submerge the entire seedling tray in water for 10 to 15 minutes.

Preparing Seedlings for Planting
Bare Root:  Create a slurry by mixing a shovel of soil, or an appropriate amount of polymer (per manufacturers recommendations), in a 5 gallon bucket ½ filled with water.  Break the bundle and place seedlings immediately into the bucket, making sure you submerge the roots completely in the slurry.  Plant within two hours, do not store in slurry or root death may occur.
Potted:  Remover tar paper completely from tar paper pot seedlings.  For styroblock seedlings, grasp main stem of seedling and pull gently while pushing up through slot in bottom of block.  With Pinon Pine, Bristlecone Pine, and Douglas Fir, cut away the Styrofoam with a knife.  Do not break the root ball or leave seedlings in the sun or wind following removal from the block or tar paper.  Seedlings should be removed from containers immediately prior to planting.
Hand Planting
Bare Root:  Dig a round hole at least one foot in diameter.  Make a small mound of soil in the bottom of hole.  Take seedling from bucket of slurry and spread roots out in all directions using the mound as a root support.  Pull loose soil back over roots, filling the hole half way.  Lightly tamp soil down or fill with water.  Then, backfill the rest of hole, tamp soil again or re-water.  Do not compact the soil by tamping wet soil!  Soil compaction eliminates oxygen which the roots need to survive.  Be sure the seedling root collar (the soil level planted in the nursery) is at the finished soil level.  Watering is the best method to settle the soil, eliminate air pockets, and provide moisture to the root system.
Potted:  Follow the same instructions as with bare root; however, do not disturb the roots and cover the root ball with a ½ inch of soil.  Make sure the root ball does not become exposed after final watering.
Machine Planting
Planting machines are available for rent from the District.  Please contact the District for using the tree planter for large plantings.
Watering
Water each seedling with one to two gallons at the time of planting.  Check soil moisture periodically by digging up soil near plants and apply water if necessary.  Mulch and drip systems are recommended for water conservation and planting success.
Fertilizing
Fertilizer use on new seedlings is generally a poor idea.  Do not put manure in the planting hole.  Do not use nitrogen until the roots have had at least one growing season.  Nitrogen can be applied the second year at the rate of 3 pounds per 1000 square feet.
Mulching

Mulches reduce weed and grass competition and water loss through evaporation.  Fabric barrier is available through the District.  Installation of fabric on large plantings can be assisted by use of the Districts fabric machine.  Alternative mulches include wood chips, straw, peeler shavings, rotted sawdust, grass clippings, and corn cobs.  Keep mulches less than 3 inches deep to avoid rodent problems.
Continued Vegetation Control
Eliminate weeds and grasses around each seedling for at least two feet.  This may be accomplished by using mulches, hand pulling, mowing, hoeing, or chemically treating.  Be careful not to damage shallow seedling roots when hoeing.  Roundup^® herbicide can be sprayed under low pressure on weeds and grasses near the seedling.  Protect seedling by covering with bucket while spraying.
Wildlife Damage
Eliminating weed and grass from the nearby area, and keeping mulch less than 3 inches deep will discourage rodents from chewing seedlings.  Tree protectors are available from the District; window screen can also be used to fabricate a rodent guard.  Big game may need to be fenced entirely from the planting.  A homemade deer repellant that seems to be more effective than commercial repellants can be made from eggs.  Mix whole eggs with tap water to form a 20% solution by volume; strain and spray on seedlings.  Another homemade repellant currently under research, is use of 6.2% hot sauce (Capsicum pepper concentrate).  If deer are really hungry, a combination of methods may be required.
Common Cause of Seedling Mortality

Improper storage

Roots exposed to hot, dry air

Roots tangled and not spread out

Seedlings planted too deep or too shallow

Lack of water

Use of low quality, high salt water

Seedling mowed off

Grasshoppers, rodents, deer, elk grazing

Livestock trampling

Sprayed with weed killer

Poor control of weeds, grasses, and other vegetation