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Introduction
Planting is only the first
phase of the process. It takes 3 to 5 years of
care for a seedling to be considered established.
The purpose of this guide is to assist the landowner
in obtaining the highest possible percentage
survival of planted conservation seedlings.
Over 90% survival can be achieved if all
recommendations are followed. If they are
ignored, you may observe less than 20% survival.
For best results, follow the instructions provided
in this planting guide.
Planning
You should have already
determined your objectives for the seedlings you are
about to plant. A diagram showing spacing
between seedlings and between rows should be
referenced during planting.
Site
Preparation
Site preparation is necessary
to catch and store moisture, reduce grass and weed
competition, and prepare the soil for planting.
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Medium to heavy (clay)
soils should be fallowed the year prior to
planting. Sites can be left rough over the
winter and disked, harrowed, or roto-tilled just
before planting.
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Light, sandy soils subject
to wind erosion should not be summer fallowed.
It is recommended to plant cover crops such as
sorghum, grain, or sudan grass the summer before
planting trees. Cultivate just before
planting, but leave the strip between rows
uncultivated.
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Perennial weeds such as
Canada thistle and bindweed should be eradicated
before trees are planted. Grasses should
also be eliminated. Weeds and grasses take
moisture away from seedling and may cause them
to die.
Care and
Storage of Seedlings
Improper care of seedlings from
delivery to planting is one of the greatest causes of
mortality. Do not store any seedlings in heated
buildings, or expose to warm air, sun, or wind.
THE DISTRICT IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR SEEDLINGS NOT PICKED
UP WITHIN 48 HOURS OF DELIVERY!
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Bare root bundles should be
left intact and stored in a cool place, under
50°F, if not planted within 48 hours of
delivery. Bundles should be opened,
seedlings placed in a trench, roots covered with
loose soil, and the trench filled with soil if
planting will not occur within two days.
Keep soil in the trench moist and protect roots
from air exposure.
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Potted trees should be
watered frequently to keep soil moist. One
method is to submerge the entire seedling tray
in water for 10 to 15 minutes.
Preparing
Seedlings for Planting
Bare Root:
Create a slurry by mixing a shovel of soil, or an
appropriate amount of polymer (per manufacturers
recommendations), in a 5 gallon bucket ½ filled with
water. Break the bundle and place seedlings
immediately into the bucket, making sure you
submerge the roots completely in the slurry.
Plant within two hours, do not store in slurry or
root death may occur.
Potted:
Remover tar paper completely from tar paper pot
seedlings. For styroblock seedlings, grasp
main stem of seedling and pull gently while pushing
up through slot in bottom of block. With Pinon
Pine, Bristlecone Pine, and Douglas Fir, cut away
the Styrofoam with a knife. Do not break the
root ball or leave seedlings in the sun or wind
following removal from the block or tar paper.
Seedlings should be removed from containers
immediately prior to planting.
Hand
Planting
Bare
Root: Dig a round hole at least one
foot in diameter. Make a small mound of soil
in the bottom of hole. Take seedling from
bucket of slurry and spread roots out in all
directions using the mound as a root support.
Pull loose soil back over roots, filling the hole
half way. Lightly tamp soil down or fill with
water. Then, backfill the rest of hole, tamp
soil again or re-water. Do not compact the
soil by tamping wet soil! Soil compaction
eliminates oxygen which the roots need to survive.
Be sure the seedling root collar (the soil level
planted in the nursery) is at the finished soil
level. Watering is the best method to settle
the soil, eliminate air pockets, and provide
moisture to the root system.
Potted:
Follow the same instructions as with bare root;
however, do not disturb the roots and cover the root
ball with a ½ inch of soil. Make sure the root
ball does not become exposed after final watering.
Machine
Planting
Planting machines are available
for rent from the District. Please contact the
District for using the tree planter for large
plantings.
Watering
Water each seedling with one to
two gallons at the time of planting. Check
soil moisture periodically by digging up soil near
plants and apply water if necessary. Mulch and
drip systems are recommended for water conservation
and planting success.
Fertilizing
Fertilizer use on new seedlings
is generally a poor idea. Do not put manure in
the planting hole. Do not use nitrogen until
the roots have had at least one growing season.
Nitrogen can be applied the second year at the rate
of 3 pounds per 1000 square feet.
Mulching
Mulches reduce weed and grass
competition and water loss through evaporation.
Fabric barrier is available through the District.
Installation of fabric on large plantings can be
assisted by use of the Districts fabric machine.
Alternative mulches include wood chips, straw,
peeler shavings, rotted sawdust, grass clippings,
and corn cobs. Keep mulches less than 3 inches
deep to avoid rodent problems.
Continued
Vegetation Control
Eliminate weeds and grasses
around each seedling for at least two feet.
This may be accomplished by using mulches, hand
pulling, mowing, hoeing, or chemically treating.
Be careful not to damage shallow seedling roots when
hoeing. Roundup® herbicide can be
sprayed under low pressure on weeds and grasses near
the seedling. Protect seedling by covering
with bucket while spraying.
Wildlife
Damage
Eliminating weed and grass from
the nearby area, and keeping mulch less than 3
inches deep will discourage rodents from chewing
seedlings. Tree protectors are available from
the District; window screen can also be used to
fabricate a rodent guard. Big game may need to
be fenced entirely from the planting. A
homemade deer repellant that seems to be more
effective than commercial repellants can be made
from eggs. Mix whole eggs with tap water to
form a 20% solution by volume; strain and spray on
seedlings. Another homemade repellant
currently under research, is use of 6.2% hot sauce
(Capsicum pepper concentrate). If deer are
really hungry, a combination of methods may be
required.
Common Cause
of Seedling Mortality
Improper storage
Roots exposed to hot, dry
air
Roots tangled and not
spread out
Seedlings planted too deep
or too shallow
Lack of water
Use of low quality, high
salt water
Seedling mowed off
Grasshoppers, rodents,
deer, elk grazing
Livestock trampling
Sprayed with weed killer
Poor control of weeds, grasses, and other vegetation
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